Over time, the skin changes: as early as age 20-25, it becomes thinner and fine lines appear (that’s where expression lines will arise), until it forms deeper furrows and loses its turgor in older age, giving way to laxity.
These typical signs are the result of structural and metabolic changes caused by the complex process of skin aging involving ROS (reactive oxygen species) generation, chronic inflammation, and impaired epidermal and dermal cell viability with consequent damage to the extracellular matrix. 1
First among all the mechanisms responsible for skin aging is the high degree of fragmentation of collagen (structural protein that forms a real supporting scaffold for organs and tissues, including the skin) by an excess of metalloproteinases (MMPs, enzymes produced by most of the body’s cells and involved in extracellular matrix turnover processes, which if in excess can cause tissue damage and contribute to various pathologies), which manifests itself in the loss of the structural integrity of the dermis itself and the impairment of fibroblast function.
This imbalance advances the aging process in a deleterious self-feeding cycle.
Topical application of retinoids (chemical compounds derived from vitamin A, such as retinol) has been considered the gold standard of anti-aging treatments for years due to its proven ability to reduce MMP expression, stimulating collagen synthesis and thus delaying the aesthetic features of skin aging.2
But it is now well known, topical retinoid treatment hides some pitfalls, i.e., it causes adverse reactions such as dryness, irritation, redness, and photosensitizing effect (makes the skin much more sensitive to the harmful action of UV rays, which is why it is not recommended during the daytime), as well as poor compatibility with other ingredients.
Among possible natural options that are often ineffective, the bakuchiol molecule, commonly extracted from the seeds of the plant Psoralea corylifolia (Babchi), has recently attracted attention as a true effective natural alternative to topical anti-aging retinol, whose retinol-like effect has been demonstrated by in-vitro, ex-vivo and in-vivo comparative studies.
Both share the ability to penetrate skin layers, stimulate collagen production and accelerate the cell renewal process; but compared to retinol, the inhibitory effect on MMPs of bakuchiol is greater. 3
This not only helps to visibly minimize surface imperfections, improving skin texture and evenness, but also helps to strengthen the skin’s natural structure from within, improving its elasticity and giving it a firmer, more toned appearance.
Multiple effects of bakuchiol in counteracting skin aging processes.1
Not only that, bakuchiol boasts a broader activity profile due to its antioxidant 3-5, anti-inflammatory 3,6,7, and antibacterial effects 8.
In fact although similar, retinol and bakuchiol are different compounds that do not work in exactly the same way, with significantly different side effects.
The main advantage in choosing bakuchiol lies precisely in its greater safety of use on the skin, thanks to a greater photostability of the molecule itself and a gentler mechanism of action that avoids sensitization phenomena.
This is why bakuchiol is the “anti-aging” ingredient indicated for all skin types, even the most sensitive.
In the formulation of our Skin 3:3® optimizing face cream, we have selected Sytenol® A as a scientifically validated valuable natural ingredient, standardized and 99% pure in bakuchiol.
Featuring a gentle yet transformative technology to address the signs of aging while protecting even the most sensitive skin, Sytenol® A boasts retinol-like activity working as a functional analogue of retinol with all its benefits but without flaking, irritation, burning or sensitization.
From the research, the gene expression regulation profile between retinol and Sytenol® A is indeed overlapping, revealing a similar pattern of activity on key genes and proteins against the aging process. 3
In detail, the results of clinical studies have scientifically validated the mechanism of action and bioactivity of Sytenol® A in terms of:
about 20% reduction in wrinkle surface after 12 weeks2, increased skin elasticity and firmness with an overall reduction in signs of photodamage; 9
59% reduction in hyperpigmentation after 12 weeks (compared to 44% for retinol); with improvements in both color intensity and extent of affected area;2
The ability to combine proven anti-aging action on multiple signs of aging with a better skin tolerability profile than retinol makes Sytenol® A a key ingredient in the Skin 3:3® Optimizing Facial Cream to provide an effective, non-irritating treatment that can be used both day and night, to be included in one’s daily routine without risk of incompatibility.
Searching for the best actives and using them in the concentrations dictated by research are essential elements for a science-based brand like HAP Body Brain Skin® to offer the best formulations for those seeking the best in skin care, without any drawbacks.
Sytenol® A is a trademark of Sytheon, Ltd.
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